Costa Getaways: Cordoba

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Costa Getaways: Cordoba
by Harvey Mann

Spain wears the crown of Europe; it has cities like Madrid, Granada, Córdoba, Toledo, Seville. They and many more adorn the crown like priceless jewels.” Those were the words spoken by the late Ernest Hemingway, writer and adventurer, during an interview he gave to me and a fellow journalist in 1960 – just a year before Hemingway died in Idaho from a bullet wound whilst cleaning a shotgun. Throughout his life he travelled extensively to many countries including Spain. Whilst in Spain he reported on the Spanish Civil War; he had seen Spain for better and for worse. His experiences enabled him to write one of his bestselling novels, For Whom the Bell Tolls. His erudite insight into Spanish life, love and politics, and the country’s overall riches is often a reminder to me as I see vast changes in the landscape and in its society – not always for the better. >> The road from Córdoba winds its way back past the familiar sweeping panorama of a multitude of different shades of green; age-old olive trees with leaves that glisten like shards of silver in the sun; small white boxes with red roofs dot the hills that are inhabited by men and women with dark brown leathered complexions, who toil the land. Over hills and through vales, the road cuts a swathe back towards the coast from a city with an abundance of riches – this was certainly one of the priceless jewels that Hemingway had acclaimed. Therefore I had to inspect this Hemingway gem for myself, and seek out every facet that this noble city has to offer: the richness of its great palaces, cathedrals, towers and spires; architecture that is Baroque, Moorish, and Renaissance. Beautiful Córdoba seems to have it all.

The origins of Córdoba date back to between 169 and 152 BC when Claudius Marcellus established a Roman colony. Owing to its privileged position as a port on the Guadalquivir and the entranceway to Andalucia, it quickly became the capital of Hispania Ulterior, and remained a Roman city for the next 800 years until the Moorish invasion. If there really was a Utopia, then possibly Córdoba could have been that place. The city surrendered to an invasion by the Moors in 711 and a charter was then drawn up to respect the religious beliefs of the inhabitants; so Muslim, Christian and Jews lived and worked peacefully side by side. This benefited the community as a whole and Córdoba flourished – even becoming the cultural capital of the Western world, with a population of over one million, a magnificent university, wonderful libraries, and sumptuous Moorish architecture. It was also said to have around 1,600 mosques.

However things were to change. Illustrious sons of the city such as poet Aben Hazam, philosopher Averroes, and Jewish doctor and thinker Maimonides, could only stand and watch when, in 1013, the Caliphate started to crumble as an internal political struggle took place between powerful warlords, which resulted in the setting up of small independent kingdoms. It was not until 1236 that the Christian army of Ferdinand III reconquered Córdoba and incorporated it into the Kingdom of Castile. The then once important city had lost its place of prominence to other great Spanish cities and was now just a place used as transit, until the 20th century when it was reestablished again as one of the most important cities of Andalucia.

If you stand on the Puente Romano, originally built by the Romans, which spans the Rio Guadalquivir, look north-west to take in the outstanding view. Make your way across the road called the Ronda de Isasa, and facing you is the Puerta del Puente built in 1571 and designed by Hernán Ruiz III for the occasion of the visit by Philip II to the city. To its left is the Triunfo de San Rafael, and through the Puerta is the breathtaking Mezquita, the Great Mosque dating back 12 centuries. This was the heartbeat of Islam on the Iberian peninsular, and was built by Abd al Rahman I between 785 and 787. As a mosque it was the largest in the western world with a total area of 24,000 square metres. Architecturally it was changed over the years, until the 10th century when Al-Hakem II made some lavish changes like the elaborate Mihrab (prayer niche), a richly ornamental place that once held a gilt copy of the Koran. Now its heavily worn flagstones show where pilgrims once circled the Koran seven times on their knees. Close by is the Maqsura (Caliph’s enclosure), an area of richness and beauty.

On the western front of the Mosque is an exquisite arched doorway which was added to during the reign of Al-Hakem II in the 10th century. In the 16th century part of the Mosque was destroyed to make way for a Cathedral to be built over the foundations of the Mosque. The construction, designed by the Hernán Ruiz family, was started in 1523 and featured an ornate Italianate dome in the antechamber to the Mihrab. As a mosque it was the largest in the Western world, with a total area of 24,000 metres. Surrounding it are the huge exterior walls, imposingly reinforced by tall square turrets, and these walls contain a large number of gates. On the north-west side is the Puerta del Pérdon (gate of pardon), created in Mudéjar style with three wonderful horseshoe arches, that dates back to the 1377. The title of the gate derives from the fact that on certain feast days debtors might be released from their obligations. Close to this gate is an altar called after the Virgin de los Faroles which at night is illuminated. Another outstanding gate on the corner of the north-western wall is the beautiful Gothic portico called the Postigo de la Leche (gate of the milk) known by this name as a place where orphans or vagrants were left to the care of the chapter.

Three gates are on the south west wall: the first is Puerta de San Esteban, a relic from the Visigothic era; the San Miguel gate and the Puerta de los Deanes all are a wonder, and decorated in Caliphal style. On the north-eastern side of the walls are the Postigo del Sagrario and the Puerta de Santa Catalina.

Towering over Puerta del Pardón is the Torre del Alminar, the 93 metre bell tower that was built on the site of the original minaret. Prove your fitness by walking the steps that lead to the top and this will give you a wonderful view of the city. Both the steps and the view will make your heart pump a little faster. It looks down onto the Patio de los Naranjos, an elegant courtyard full of orange trees and a fountain, and here the faithful Moors would wash before prayer.

I suppose the most outstanding sight amongst all this stunning architecture is the forest of arches (arcades) of Al-Hakem II. Originally there were 1,013 arches, 856 of which survived the Christian reforms. The columns have simple Corinthian capitals in blue marble shafts, and compound capitals in red marble. The Mihrab is a stunning work of art: the Maxura, the area reserved for the Caliph, is composed of three chapels, each with a dome-shaped skylight ornately decorated with mosaics. Close by is the Capilla Real – built in pure Mudéjar style in 1258 by order of King Alphonse X as his burial place – which finally became the sacristy of the Chapel of Villaviciosa with its splendid dome.

When King Ferdinand gave his permission to build the Cathedral (also known as the Capilla Mayor) that encompassed the Mosque it was against much opposition, and he probably did not realise that some of the Mosque would have to be destroyed. It is said that during the transformation the King passed close by and stopped to see the work in progress and, when he saw what destruction had taken place, he expressed great regret.

Although designer Hernán Ruiz conceived the Cathedral as a Gothic edifice, he introduced the now familiar Mudéjar style along with Plateresque and Isabelline styles. The Choir area and the high altar, along with the chapel of Nuestra Senora Villaviciosa, are places to stop and take in the majestic peacefulness. I have only scratched the surface of what this Cathedral/Mosque has to offer – allow yourself plenty of time to explore, and to fill up the memory card in your camera.

Outside, the ruined Almoravide walls of the old city stand against time. Almost 400 metres long, six metres high and two metres thick, inset with the gates of the 10th century Puerta de Sevilla with its two identical arches, and the Puerta de Almodóvar built around the 14th century. Close by is a statue honouring the Córdoban poet Aben Hazam (994- 1064).

If gardens take your fancy then the Gardens of the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos are a must. Built in 1328 at the behest of King Alphonse X1, they are a splendid example of wonderful terraces and fountains. It is hard to believe in this floral paradise that Catholic Monarchs who lived in the El Alcázar used this as their residence as they planned military operations to reconquer Granada, and later it was used as a military and civil prison. One of the most popular tourist attractions are the narrow winding lanes of the Jewish quarter – a medieval cool labyrinth that contains historic buildings. Here the streets spread out like tentacles, reaching out to the old city walls around the Mosque. In the Calle Judios is the monument to the legendary Jewish doctor, Maimonides. The synagogue, according to its inscription, was built in 1314, with rich plasterwork and marvellous examples of craftsmanship. This, with two other synagogues that are in Toledo, are the only ones that have survived from those times in Spain. Now you can understand how, in this environment, three religions, Christian, Arab and Jew, lived in harmony. Back to the origins of Córdoba: in the Calle Claudio Marcelo are the remains of the Roman temple that dates back to the 1st century. Its much-restored columns originally made up a huge place of worship dedicated to the gods of Mythology.

Lastly, one could not fail to visit the patios which Córdoba is famous for, which were originated by the Romans who built homes around courtyards and then filled them with plants and flowers that turned the space into an oasis (and called them ‘agora’ or open space). From the Roman ‘agora’ came the ‘casinillo’ for the Moors, then the ‘patios’ for the Spanish. Ornamental ironwork decorates graceful porches, fountains and waterspouts; elegant tiles against the brilliant white of washed walls, and the riot of colour and perfume from an abundance of flowers; these patios are breathtaking and cannot be overlooked.

Now Córdoba with its population of around 320,000 has rightly become an historic centre, one of the largest in Europe, and declared by UNESCO as the patrimony of humanity. With its wide avenues, wonderful parks and peaceful gardens, Córdoba is no longer a city of transit – it is Northern Andalucia’s star attraction. Córdoba province encompasses the Montilla and Morales wine regions: a place to spend many a day sipping wine and discovering the history and beauty.

Córdoba is exciting and a wonder to the eye of the beholder. If I have overused the words wonderful, beautiful, brilliant and breathtaking, well I must apologise, but go and look for yourself and I promise that you will not be disappointed. Hemingway was certainly right about Spain having the crown of Europe: certainly all its cities glisten like jewels but, for me, Córdoba is the most priceless of them all.